T H B 



EKELSIOR TROUSERS COTTER, 

■W]T13. A TllKATmE ON 

DEFECTS AND REMEDIES 

IN T]^OTJSB]:i8 



THE 



EXCELSIOR TROUSERS CUTTER 



WITH A TREATISE 
ON 



DEFECTS i REMEDIES 



IN TROUSERS. 



FULLY ILLUSTRATED 



WITH NINETEEN DIAGRAMS. 



BY 



( MAR 31 ie:: ) 



ROBERT PHILLIPS, 

Editor Custom Cutter &. Fashion Review, 
CHICAGO. 



A. LANGRIDGE, ^^ 

Lecturer National Federation of Foremen 

Tailors' Societies, 

ENGLAND. . . 



.THE ROBERT PHILLIPS CO., 



PRICE S5. 00. 

CHICAGO, ILL, U.S. A. 

COPYRIGHTED BY R. PHILLIPS, ' "'"^ ^ 

o 



c 



■i 






,^ 




^/^ '^'- '^3^^ 



The Excelsior Trousers Cutter. 



CONTENTS. 

PART FIRST. 

PAGE. 

Poctraite of the Authors, Robert Phillips and A. Laogridge 2 

Contents, 3 

Preface, 5 

Chapter I., Introduction, 6 

" II., A ttitude, Motion, Obpervation, 7 

" III., The InBtep anl Heel, 7 

Normal Measures 8 

Diagram 1. The Nude Figure, (Diagrams 1 and 2) 8 

Diagram 3, Normal Troupers, ; 10, 11 

Diagram 4, Abnormal Trou8»>rs, 12, 13 

Diagram 5, Knee Breeches, 14 

PART SECOND. 

Defects and Remedies in Trousers Cutting- 
Introduction, 15 

Same Size Measures, 15 

A Right Method IG 

Diagrams 2 and 3, 17 

How to Draft same and Diagram 4 18 

Diagrams 1, 2, 3, and 4 19 

Erect and Forward Figures, 20 

The Advantages and Disadvantages of the Forward and Receding Front. 20 

The Effect of a too forward front (see diagram 10) 21 

The effect of a too Receding Front, 21 

Peculiarities and Deformities of Custonaers, 22 

Principal Objections, 23 

Horse Shoe Creases 23 

Diagrams 5 and ^6, 24 

" 7 and 8, 25 

0.10,8nd 11, 26 

" 12 27 

APPENDIX. 

Appendix to Defects and R>medies in Trousers Cutting, 28 

The Excelsior Method in Practice— Hollow Inside Thigh and Flat Seat 28 



The Excei sior Tkousers Cutter. 



|M -^^^PP^EFAGK.l^ 




In presenting this work to the trade we realize that our efforts in this direction will be 
criticized by some, endorsed by others, and used by those who" are in the line of proi^ress. It 
is an easy matter for an intelligent, or even an illiterate, man to condemn a work of this nature, 
but it is another and entirely different thitig to disprove the principles embodied in the system 
set forth. It is not the interest of the authors of this voluriie to condemn other works on 
trousers cutting that have been published, but we do affirm that no work ever published in 
America covers the ground so thoroughly and arrives at correct conclusions in an easier, more 
scientific and practical way than the present volume. The reason for this is the fact that the 
authors are men of long experience in the trade as practical tailors and cutters and have re- 
duced their actual experience at the cutting board to a system we claim not excelled, if equaled, 
by any other author. This may seem boasting to some, but to satisfy yourselves of our claim 
it will be expedient to thoroughly examine our work and test it by actual experience, and we 
believe the present work will be endorsed by the trade as a vade mecvm'in their work. 

We do not insist that you should utilize every opinion or illustration it contains, if they 
are not in harmony with your views, but they may lead you into new and unexplored fields, so 
that your actual experience will be increased. Neither do we insist that you should abandon 
your present method of trousers cutting if it is giving you that satisfaction that it ought to give, 
and we presume that all who read this volume are sufficiently well informed on the scientific 
principles that underly correct trousers cutting, but that the facts here set forth may cause you 
to inquire further into the cniii^e and '#''<■/ of trousers cutting. 

If you know certain effects in your trousers to exist, it is the part of the wise man to en- 
deavor to locate the cause, and we simply present this volume to the trade with the hope that 
it will assist those who are in trouble, and the belief that it will lead you into new channels of 
development and proficiency. 

I'^eeling confident that when the trade are fully aware of the usefulness of the present 
volume they will willingly peruse its pages carefully, believing that those who seek shall find 
the jewels that are still hidden in the fundamental principles of scientific cutting. 

RoKEKT 1*1111 I l^'^. Publisher. 



The Excelsior Trousers Cutter. 



PWRT F\RST . 



The Excelsior Trousers System is taught at the Custom Cutter School of Cutting, 
illustrated by scientific diagrams showing the symmetrical relation of the legs in a stand- 
ing, moving and sitting position. 



OHA-i^TEK. I. 



INTRODUCTION. 



Notwithstandingthe many valuable and ably 
written books on trousers cutting that have 
been published, many of which have become 
standard text books, there still remain many 
valuable and reliable things to be said, and 
problems to be elucidated for the benefit of the 
present and coming generations. We do not 
hope, by the publication of the present volume, 
to scatter all the darkness and move scientific 
theories that are believed by many in our pro- 
fession, but we do hope to so interest and, if 
per chance, enlighten a few who are seeking 
for more light, that a higher and a more ad- 
vance position will be taken in the art of 
trousers cutting. 

Part II of this volume so thoroughly covers 
the ground on the question of defects and 
causes that it is needless for us to repeat here 
many of the principles there set forth, in dif- 
ferent phraseology and by different illustra- 
tions. Suffice to say that the main features and 
principles set forth in this work are the joint 
opinions of the authors, who have endeavored 
to be as lucid as possible in their several parts. 

The reader will observe that the authors 
start out from different standpoints in the sys- 
tems given, and while Mr. Langridge may not 
use the same divisions as Mr. Phillips, the con- 
clusions will be found to be in unison, and 
either system will give results that will be sat- 
isfactory to the student. For the style and fit 
of trousers worn in America the American cut- 
ter will necessarily make som.e slight changes 
in Mr. Langridge's method, while on the other 
hand the English cutter will change to some 



extent the Excelsior method, so that it may 
be better adapted to the style of trousers worn 
in England. But, as we said in the preface, 
this work's chief use will doubtless be to assist 
the operator to discover where defects are and 
to give him illustrations of how to remedy 
them to the satisfaction of himself and the 
comfort of his clients. 

So far as we know no work of this nature 
has ever been published in America, and we 
are convinced that many in our profession will 
hail with delight this volume of useful infor- 
mation, .ind we believe it will be given an 
honored place in the technical libraries of the 
craft. 

One of the great hindrances to the better 
understanding of the principles that underlie 
scientific trousers cutting is the fact that most 
of our authors have devoted most of their time 
to coats and vests and other garments for the 
upper or trunk part of the body — hence, to a 
large extent trousers cutting has been neglected 
in a scientific sense. Of recent years, however, 
more attention has been given to the study of 
the subject and now quire a number of good 
and reliable methods have been published. 
Realizing that our readers would rather study 
fundamental and scientific principles than the 
publisher's personal opinions on trousers cut- 
ting on general principles, we therefore ap- 
proach the subject, believing that when they 
have given it careful consideration and 
practical tests they will readily exclaim 
that the methods set forth and the manner in 
which the problems are handled are Excelsior. 



The Excelsior Trousers Cutter. 



CH-A-IPTE'^L II. 



ATTITUDE. 

The primary attitude of man is to stand 
upright, hence, the first principle to b'^ consid- 
ered is, can we lay down a principle in mathe- 
matical calculation by measurements of the 
legs to be a fundamental in the problem of 
trousers cutting? We answer, if we measure 
the extreme parts that are to be covered by 
the garment we propose producing, we should 
be able to do so, provided these parts are in 
proportion to each other, as well as the inter- 
mediate or connecting sections. 

To correctly cover the legs in an uprieht 
attitude would not be a difificult problem if that 
part of the anatomy always remained in that 
position, but observation has taught us that 
the lower part changes in attitude according to 
the will of the upper part, or we might say the 
intellectual or will part. The legs of them- 
selves without a guiding influence would be of 
little use to mankind other than simply filling 
the intermediate between the body and the 
ground, if it were not for their joint action with 
the trunk or upper-section and the will power; 
hence, we say that the attitude changes in its 
lower parts at the will of man to m^et the re- 
quirements of balance or equilibrium when 
moving. 

MOTION. 

The movement of the legs in their normal 
condition is forward with a slight tendency 
to the outward; or, as we would say, the leg in 
motion assumes a centrifugal position; which 
position becomes absolutely necessary that the 
upper and heavier part of the whole (or upper 
section of the body) may be in balance or in 
harmony with the section that gives l.como- 
tion to the entire body. It is, we believe, a 



lack of knowledge on this problem that causes 
so many defects to be apparent in modern 
trousers, and which must forever remain so 
long as many of the fallacies in the construc- 
tion of the systems are allowed to go by de- 
fault. 

If we can establish the hypothesis that 
mankind was not made to stand but to have a 
forward motion according to the location of 
each muscle and bone, and to be in a right 
angle in a sitting position, which is the extreme 
of any position of the body then, we can easily 
arrange a method or system on a scientific 
basis that we believe will meet the require- 
ments of the various attitudes the body as- 
sumes in complying with the intellectual or 
will power of the individual. 

OBSERVATION. 

Any observing cutter can demonstrate for 
himself the truth of the foregoing by observ- 
ing the attitude and motion of a man when 
walking. It is an admitted fact that the larger 
the individual becomes at the waist the more 
he will open his feet when in motion. This 
leads us to mention close pnd open cut, which 
we believe is not fully understood by a large 
per cent of cutters, and has given no end of 
trouble to many a man who realized something 
was wrong, yet he failed to locite the cause. 

Several attempts have been made in the 
past to discover the distance the feet are apart 
both in a standing and walking position, but 
thus far no correct method has been laid down 
that has been in harmony with actual experi- 
ence, hence we propose in the following chap- 
ter to give a rule or method that we have used 
for a number of years with success. 



CH^FTEI?. III. 



THE INSTEP AND HEEL. 

Various rules have been given to locate cor- 
rectly the instep and heels both in a standing 
and walking position. Some by actual meas- 
urement and others by a division of the seat 



and waist measures, but we have found such a 
difference of opinion on the result that we 
have made a mathematical calculation as a 
guide to our readers in studying out the vari- 
ous sizes as follows: 



The Excelsior Trousers Cutter. 



NOKMAL measures. 



.seat 


ANKLE 


SEAr 

• 37 


ANKLE 

. . 9H 


SEAT 
44 


ANKLE 


30 


II?'^ 


3' 


s^A 


3« 


9^ 


45 


115^ 


3-' 


SH 


39 


^oA 


46 


11% 


JO 


SsA 


40 


10)^ 


47 


I2>^ 


34 


8% 


41 


I05/8 


4« 


I2H 


35 


Q'A 


4^ 


io<n 


49 


12^ 


36 


9H 


J.i 


ii'A 


50 


12 7/ij 



You will find in another part of this volume 
the statement made that the distance the heels 
are apart is one-ninth of the seat quantity. 
This is practically correct for all general pur- 
poses, but as we begin the division of the above 
measures you will discover that the measure- 
ments here given exceeds about three-eights 
of an inch the quantity given later on. In the 
succeeding chapter the statement is merely 
made as a fact, while in the present we pro- 
pose using the actual measures here given to 
establish scientifically the method or system 
under discussion. We wish to state further 
before giving the mathematical reasons as the 
basis of our system that the larger the individ^ 
ual becomes in the waist the further the feet 
are apart, both in a standing and a walking 
position. This is owing to the fact that as the 
greatest increase is in front the body becomes 
more erect; hence, the back length is shortened 
and the front becomes longer, therefore the 
feet are placed further apart so as to give the 
proper balance to the upper part of the body. 

Di(i</rum 1. 

THE NUDE FIGURE. 

The dotted lines represent the legs drawn 
on the basis of a 32 waist, 36 seat, g^ ankle 
and 31 %' leg. According to the table already 
given the ankle of a normal figure is three- 
eighths of an inch more than one-fourth of the 
circumference of seat measure; hence, on the 
division of seat ami ankle measures we propose 
working out the system. 

Draw a line C C C for center. From C to 
D is one-fourth of circumference (36) and two 
seams (^) for-rise; from D to E leg length 
(3,1%). To locate knee go tip from E one- 
half of leg measure and one and one-half 
inch added, as at 6; square line across bottom 
at E, also at D and C at waist by line C C. D 



to F is one-fourth of circumference le'^s one- 
half inch, or eight and one-half, and square up 
to Cj. From G to H is one inch more than 
from I) to F". From F to J is one-fourth seat, 
from F" to K is one-third seat on halves; to 
find construction line, measure from E to L 
one-third of close ankle measure (3,V6); now 
draw a line from L to J. To find balance line, 
measure from L to M one-twelfth of waist and 
draw line from M through K to waist. These 
lines ought to cross a little below knee pan as 
at *; this gives us four and one-half inches (or 
a total of nine) from E to M, which is the sep- 
aration of the feet in a walking or sitting posi- 
tion, the heels being one inch on each side of 
E closer than the instep, or a total of seven 
inches. We now pass to the right leg 

Dingram 2, 
which is here represented as in a walking 
position. To draft the trousers to be 
in harmony with this position lay square on 
touching F, D and H, and draw lines 2 and 3. 
We now find that line 2 at 4 has dropped below 
the original line D F about three-fourth of an 
inch; continue line 2 from 4 to 5, which is one- 
third of the distance from D to F. Six is half 
the distance between 4 and 5, and draw line 
from 6 to H for front fly-line, add five-eighths 
from 5 to 7 and go up from 6 to 8 one-twelfth 
and shape front as per diagram. 

Square line 9 by line 3 and G and go back 
from H at front waist to X one-fourth of waist 
measure and shape hip of forepart. 

To find construction line, square down from 
K by line 2, 4, to W; from W to N is one- 
eighth of seat; from W to O is one-sixth, and 
from O to P is 2}4 inches until the bot- 
tom on these divisions reaches a total of eight, 
then add only two or two and one-fourth, 
and in large sizes sometimes as low as one and 
one-half. Draw line from P to one-fourth inch 
inside of 5 for leg seam, and from N to F for 
side seam. Draw knee line by leg seam through 
center of knee pan and make knee to measure 
which in this case is nine and one-quarter, or 
one-half of knee size, which in this case is in- 
side. M being the center of fore-part, L being 
one inch from M has become the center of 
heels, which is one inch less than one-third of 
angle measure from the fact that you have 
dropped the fork one inch. 



The Excelsior Trousers Cutter. 




Diagram 2. 



Diagram 1. 



lO 



The Excelsior Trousers Cutter. 



THE BACK PART. 

Measure from M to L one inch and 
from K to T the same and draw back 
balance line; divide bottom quantity each side 
of L with seams added. Go out from 7 to 12 
one and one-half inch always and sweep from 
7 by knee of forepart; make back part one 
inch wider than forepart at knee at inseam and 
shape as per diagram; make knee to measure, 
adding one inch for seams. To find seat angle 
lay square on 8 and back balance line where it 
crosses waist line at qq. To find height of back 
part sweep from X by 4 and, from X by F to 
find height at side seam at B B. Now apply 
waist and seat measures, adding two inches at 
each place for make up, and take one-half 
inch V at waist. 

As this method is rather complicated for or- 
dinary use we herewith present you the system 
as used at the cutting board for several years 
and which is virtually the same as shown by 
Diagram 3. 

Diagram 3. 

NORMAL TROUSERS. 

The measures: Leg 32, waist 34, seat 38, 
knee iq, bottom 18. 

HOW TO DRAKT THE TOP SIDES. 

Line O O represents edge of paper and is 
one-fourth of seat measure and two seams 
added, ten inches; O to J4^ is always one-fourth 
inch, and draw dotted line; from X to C is half 
of seat, less one-half inch, nine; O to D is one 
inch more than from ^ to C; now lay square 
on touching %, C and D, and draw fork and 
front line and square line from D to O by line 
C D, and go from D to S one-half of waist 
measure, eight and one-half. 

Continue fork line, divide quantity from 
J4^ to C into three equal parts and add one of 
them from C to E, in this size three inches; F 
is half the distance from C to E, and G is half 
the distance between C and F. Now draw 
these lines up to D. Go up from F to U one- 
twelfth of seat and add from E to H five- 
eighths always for dress, and shape fork as per 
diagram. 

To find construction and balance lines in 
legs, go out from ji to K one-third of seat and 



square down to I by line % and C from K to I, 
thirty-two, and square all lines by line 1-K; 
from I to J is one-eighth seat; from I to L is 
one-sixth seat; from L to M is two and one- 
half inches. Go out from J to P one-half inch 
less than width of fore part at bottom, draw 
side seam as per dotted line from J to J^ ; for 
front balance, draw line from P through K to 
waist, and from M to one-fourth inch inside of 
E for leg seam, which locates N always; hol- 
low bottom about one-half inch and shape 
dress, and make to measure from N to R half 
of knee size. 

THE UNDERSIDES. 

Lay cut out forepart on and go out from K 
to Z one inch, and from P to Q one inch, and 
draw back balance line from Q through Z to 
B; divide the balance of bottom quantity each 
side of Q with one inch added for seams, e. g. 

(for example) : 
If this bottom is eighteen we have made for 
part eight, subtract this from eighteen leaving 
ten and one inch added for seams or eleven 
total — equal on each side of Q five and one- 
half inches; from Q to A and Q to V. 

N to Y is one inch always, and H to 7 is one 
and one-half inches always in ordinary sizes; 
sweep from E by N to 7 so as to shorten dis- 
tance from Y to 7, which should be stretched 
to length of forepart, and shape leg seam as 
represented. 

To find seat angle, draw a line from U to B 
on back balance; to find X sweep by C, and to 
find W sweep from one-fourth inch below S 
by O, which is one-fourth inch below }{. T is 
about one-fourth of seat from F and draw dot- 
ted line by line F-D. Apply seat measure from 
T and seat angle line and two inches for seams 
and ease, and waist measure from D to S and 
X to W and two inches, and take out one-half 
inch V. Hollow a little from X to a little be- 
low B and continue from U to 7 as represented. 
The back part should be stretched a little with 
iron between 7 and U, R and O and W, make 
knee to measure and one inch for seams and 
make back parts one-fourth inch longer than 
fronts at bottom as per diagram. 



The Excelsior Trousers Cutter, 



II 




Dag •am 3. 

NORMAL TROUSERS. 



12 



The Excelsior Trousers -Cutter. 



Diagram 4. 

ABNORMAL TROUSERS. 

The measures: Leg 32, waist 42, seat 42, 
knee 20, bottom i8>^. 

Proceed as in Diagram 3 until you get to 
the division of seat measure to find distance 
from J^ to C as follows: For every inch 
above a forty seat reduce the fork one- 
eighth of an inch and advance the same quan- 
tity at D at front waist, e. g. One-half of 21 = 
loj^ less >4 inch=ioless 2-8=9% total quan- 
tity from '/i to C, or equal to about a forty-one 
seat if cut on the proportions of ordinary sizes. 
I now go out from O to D one inch more than 
distance from % to C and also add the two- 
eights reduced, e. g.; Q^ + i = 10^+2-8= 1 1 total 
quantity from () to D. Now lay square on 
touching >4, C and D and draw fork and front 
waist line. Make waist line from D to O par- 
allel with fork line. Proceed as described in 
Diagram 3 for fork quantities and to get round 
for abdomen add on in front from D in ad- 
vance of line D-C one-eighth for each size re- 
duced at fork, thus you have added twice the 
quantity you reduced at C. Now shape front 
of fly and fork. To get correct height of waist 
at 6, subtract the proportionate waist size, 



which should have been four inches smaller 
than seat from the actual waist size, thus 38 
from 42=4, showing four inches to be the dis- 
proportion. Now divide four into three equal 
parts and add one part at top of waist from D 
to 6, which gives the correct use for this size. 
You now proceed to finish forepart as per Dia- 
gram 3. 

THE UNDERSIDES. 

The only difference we make in the under- 
sides is, add from H to 7 one and three- 
fourth, to two and even two and one-fourth 
inches for fork room, and add two and one- 
half inches to seat measure, and one inch more 
than waist measure from X to W, but take 
out no Y. 

You can readily see that Diagram 4 is con- 
siderably more open in the legs than Diagram 
3, from the fact that the front waist is more 
advanced and the fork is lower, thereby open- 
ing the legs, giving greater length from fork 
to waist in front, and consequently the side 
seam is shortened, thus proving that the feet 
are further apart, which fact has become an 
absolute necessity to give balance to the ab- 
normal section above. 




The Excelsior Trousers Cutter. 



13 




Diagram 4. 

ABNORMAL TROUSERS. 



14 



The Excelsior Trousers Cutter. 



Diagram 5. 



knee breeches. 



The measures: Leg i4-i6>ij-iq, waist 34, 
seat 38, thigh 21, knee 14^4, upper calf 15, be- 
tween upper calf and knee, as at L, it,^- 

THE FOREPARTS. 

Proceed as in Diagram 3, until the entire 
top of forepart is complete. To get construc- 
tion line for bottom, continue line D-C to N-L 
and Y. Apply leg lengths and go out from N 
and L one inch, and at Y one and one-fourth, 
and shape inside leg seam to bottom. Apply 
half of knee and upper calf measure from i to 
A and from i % to R, and shape outside seam, 
having placed one-half of thigh measure three 
inches below fork as per dotted line, and add 
a little round from R to i^. 

THE UNDERSIDES. 

Lay square on K, U and B and draw seat 
angle and adtl a little round on seat opposite 
at T, advancing one-half inch at 3 from U, and 
continue to 7. The reason of adding at 3 one- 
half inch or making seat angle straighter is, that 
as the gent seats himself in the saddle his 
knees approach nt-arer to a right angle than 
they were in a standing or walking position; 
hence, the necessity for a more open cut and 
a straighter seat angle. Apply measures mak- 
ing the same increase as in a fat man's trousers 
and take V out at waist as represented. The 
undersides should be well stretched where 

marked so as to reduce the surplus 

cloth when in a standing and sitting position. 

Now apply lower or knee measures and 
three-fourths for seams only; they ought to be 
made quite close around knee, as the positions 
of the knees soon cause the material to stretch 
at those parts, and unless they fit perfectly they 
are apt to ride up a little with the motion of 
the horse. Hollow the back parts as repre- 
sented by dotted line 2 and put five buttons at 
knee, the top button being on a direct line with 
knee. 




Diagram 5. 



KNEE BREECHES. 



now TO MEASURE. 

Take all lengths same as for trousers, only, 
of course, taking the lengths required. The 
waist and seat measures should be taken rather 
closely over the trousers, but the thigh, knee, 
small and upper calf should be taken medium 
close over the underclothing, as it is never safe 
to measure over a garment that does not fit 
the leg closely. When the measures are taken 
over the underclothing the seams must be 
added for making up. 



The Excelsior Trousers Cutter. 



15 



PV\RT SHOOHO. 



DEFECTS AND REMEDIES IN TR( USERS CUTTING. 



Unfortunately for those who have to con- 
struct trousers for all sorts and con(l'ti<ins of 
men, the balance is too often on the wrong 
side in the matter of defects, and the trouble 
is very often largely increased in the endeavor 
to establish a cure. It often happens, too- 
when we most congratulate ourselves upon 
having attained success, that we experience 
the greatest blow to our hopes, and the little 
confidence we had in ourselves vanishes into 
thin air. 

A series of defects in trousers are the result 
of various causes, generally traceable to the 
shortcomings of the operator himself, from the 
fact of not having a scientific basis to guide 
him, nor the power or skill necessary to de- 
velop the intricacies of construction. 

There are several forms of defect in trouser 
cutting, assuming proportions to a greater or 
lesser degree, according to the nearness of 
approach to the correct principles that under- 
lie all scientific conclusions. 

We are told by some that defects mainly 
arise from existing differences in form and 
figure, but this style of argument will scarcely 
hold water, from the fnct thnt no reliable 
method has yet been discovered which will 
produce a perfect fitting garment, even for the 
most perfect form of figure. 

Of course we are aware tnat there are dif- 
ferences in form and size as well, but still the 
construction of man in all his parts is simply 
the repetition of another man, the difference 
being only in form and size, the general atti- 
tude antl motion being ail in the same direc- 
tion. 



Again, if it were possible to produce a 
method that would meet successfully the re- 
quirements of one form of figure, the diffi- 
culty should not be very great in its adaptation 
to another form of figure, seeing that the atti- 
tude and motions of man are in the same direc- 
tion and as nearly alike as possible. Providing 
this to be the case, then the primary cause of 
defect lies in the secret of construction, made 
apparent by the motions of the body, rather 
than in the narrow different, is arising from any 
particular peculiarity in size or form. 

SA.ME SIZE MEASURKS. 

It IS true that some figures measuring actu- 
ally the same size are not ilwavs of the same 
actual development, but. ;ifter all, this is sim- 
ply a process of give and take, the changes be- 
ing chiefly confined to the region of seat or 
fork (the addition or reduction following the 
outline of figure), but wh itever difference 
might exist in this direction, the effect upon 
general construction being so small, it follows 
that this form of argument will not support in 
the smallest degree the idea that defects, of any 
moment, arise from any peculiarity of size or 
form. 

It is very clear then, supported by this evi- 
dence, that the common source of defects is 
the absence of that yet far distant ideal — a 
perfectly constructed sy^t'-ni subject to the 
various motions of the body. 

I )efectivc con>-truction in trousers cutting 
leads, of course, to an unequal distribution of 
material, and this in turn is the cause of all our 
trouble in the matter of defects. Either the 



i6 



Defects and Remedies 



top sides are too open or too close — the oper- 
ator very often not knowing which — the under- 
sides, of course, following suit, and the harmony 
of the whole is not exactly what we could 
wish. 

But whatever be the opinion of an individ- 
ual upon this question, the differences of opin- 
ion generally are so many and varied, that 
notions and theorie"?, peculiarities of form and 
defects, get so hopelessly mixed up, that to un- 
ravel this great mystery to the satisfaction of 
all is a great task indeed. 

With these preliminary remarks, made by 
way of introduction, I will proceed to the sub- 
ject under discussion and endeavor to reduce 
to a demonstration all the points in question, 
in the order they come. 

A RIGHT METHOD. 

In the first place, what is the best and most 
useful system in the main for producing 
trousers? 

This is the most important question con- 
nected with the whole subject, because upon 
the solution of it hangs the true remedy for 
all defects. If one could point out the best 
system of construction m trousers, and could 
lay it down to the satisfaction of all cutters, 
there would be really no necessity to proceed 
with the other problems, as that point of per- 
fection would be reached when defects would 
be spoken of as things of the past. 

Then again, if we carefully consider the 
question of construction in trousers, one might 
be bold enough to assert that there is every 
possibility of discovering a perfect system, from 
the fact that we often meet with first-class fit- 
ting trousers, and upon this evidence alone the 
presumption would be that there is something 
beyond which would point to a nearer perfec- 
tion than what might be termed first-class. 

Of course the best system in the main for 
producing trousers would be a method based 
upon scientific principles which would describe 
in systematic form the exact requirements of 
the figure. Now the requirements of the figure 
are simply a demand for a covering that will 
at the same time be easy and graceful, limited, 
of course, to a given size. 



One of the primary conditions of trousers 
cutting is to secure the exact size or measures 
of the figure; as in all cutting the possession 
of correct measures is absolutely necessary if 
perfect results are desired. 

First of all then, before we attempt to con- 
struct a system, we must be certain of the cor- 
rectness of the measures and we must satisfy 
ourselves that we perfectly understand what is 
meant by "attitude" and "motion," for the at- 
titude must determine the direction of the 
figure, which the lines of construction must 
also follow the motions directing the inter- 
mediates or stations, where a disturbance of 
material takes place, resulting from the natural 
movements of the figure. Although it is pos- 
sible for a figure to assume almost every con- 
ceivable position, still the limit is reached at a 
right angle. 

It therefore follows that in the construction 
of trousers we have two extreme provisions to 
make. Firstly, to provide for the natural atti- 
tude. Secondly, to provide for the full extent 
of angle required in the act of sitting down. If 
we had only to consider the primary attitude 
of man, that of stantling bolt upright, our diffi- 
culties would not be very great, as trousers 
constructed on the plumb principle would meet 
the requirements of this isolated position, but 
from the fact of the figure's movements in the 
breaking up of straight lines comes all the 
creases and defects so visibly apparent in the 
majority of our trousers. 

In the construction of a perfect trousers 
system there are several important points 
which demand serious attention and consider- 
ation. First of all comes the figure itself, with 
a limited outline of form and size, the exact 
dimensions being described by the inch tape 
and entered in the order book. If we take a 
review of the figure, whether large or small, 
we find that there are certain straight lines 
running through the figure, which may be 
termed imaginary. For instance, we might 
imagine a line say upwards and downwards from 
A terminating inside the foot (See Diagram 
I.) Then we might imagine another upwards 
and downwards from B, cutting centre of knee 
and terminating at the instep. There is also 
the fiy line, which, if plumbed downwards. 



In Trousers Cutting. 



17 



would find the centre of the distance the heels 
are apart — unless in the case of malformation. 
I find in experimenting, testing and com- 
paring, that there is a certain "ratio" the heels 
are apart and although not scientifically cor- 
rect to the fraction of an inch, yet for all prac- 
tical purposes, the distance may be set down 
at one-nintii of the total seat and would cor- 
r-ispond with O- 13 (Diagram i). Forcxample, 
for a thirty-six seat the heels would be about 
four inches apart, and in a fifty-four seat they 
would be six inches apart, whiah is evidence 
that the large draft would in reality be more 
open in the legs, although from a casual glance 
at the draft — taking the boundary or side line 
into consideration — the trousers might appear 
closer than the smaller size or thirty-six seat. 
Of course there are causes which vary these 
conditions slightly, but not sufficiently to have 
any material effect on the hang of the trousers. 
The question has been cjebated many times 
as to which should be the primary construction 
line in drafting trousers, but the debaters most- 
ly fail to grasp the idea that there is practi- 
cally no difference between the side, centre or 
front line, as they must be parallel with the 
boundaries of the figure and ai.i, travel in the 
same direction. I'or instance, if wc adopt the side 
line we attach quantities in the direction of 
the other two, and if we take the front line 
our operations are directed to the side, and if 
we adopt the centre line our operations take 
opposite directions from that line. The only 
thing about which to be particular is to sec 
that these lines, however used, travel in har- 
mony with the imaginary lines running through 
the figure, seeing also that the leg cuts the cen- 
tre of the draft. 

We often read of the terms "open" and 
"close," but these terms, strictly speaking, can- 
not be applied only in error, because if a draft 
is correct the terms have no application, from 
the fact of the draft being right. The terms 
can be used in a technical sense to describe a 
departure from an original for a specific pur- 
pose, but the effect produced is a delect, and 
if a perfect system was introduced there would 
be no application of the terms at all, for even 
the very admission of them prove that one de- 
fect is introduced to cover another. 



We will just suppose a trousers cut upon 

what is termed the "open" principle (see 
Diuyram 2. 
When the leg was passed through the 
trousers the natural hang of the material would 
be outward and the consequence would be that 
the leg would force the material in its own di- 
rection, which would have the effect of creat- 
ing creases all up the leg seam when on, to the 
extent that the trousers were unnaturally 
opened. The very opposite would take place 
in a too close cut trousers. The leg again be- 
ing the active member it would force the 
material in its own direction. 
See Difujrtim 3. 

If I were to have the choice between these 
two evils, I certainly should incline to the close 
cut, as the fork and leg seam would present a 
better appearance in walking, as the material 
in being forced to the side would not be so con- 
spicuous, owing to there being more length 
and freedom in the side seam, consequently 
the evil can be better tolerated. 

Now in order to construct a system that 
will adapt itself to the generality of figures, we 
must think out the imaginary lines before re- 
ferred to, in order to obtain a right conception 
of what is required. Not only must we be 
certain of the actual construction lines them- 
selves, but the boundaries of the figure must 
be taken into consideration or the trousers 
would become too large or too small. The 
material must extend to, and not beyond, the 
superficies. The covering must be complete 
as to limit, including seams, and the usual 
amount for ease and style. 

We often meet with trousers, and other 
garments as well, which have the appearance 
of being well cut and well balanced, but they 
sometimes happen to be too large or too small. 
This shows that the measures were not cor- 
rectly taken, otherwise they would have been 
first rate garments. 

If we glance at Diagram i we have a rep- 
resentation of this defect. The trousers are 
well balanced, the leg goes straight through, 
but there is too much material in the fork and 
in consequence there would be a lot of stuff in 
the lap when sitting down, with probabe creases 
from the inside knee to fork points. This 
often arises from using divisions of the seat 



i8 



Defects and Remedies 



when the ligure is not of the normal type. The 
sum total of the seat may be the same, only in 
this case the trousers would be close, or tight, 
upon the hips and loose in the fork and back 
seat. 

Diagram 2 shows the relation between the 
direction of the leg and the material when 
trousers are cut more open than the figure re- 
quires and the consequence would be a displace- 
ment of material when the figure was in actual 
motion. 

Diagram 3 shows the result of trousers be- 
ing cut closer than is necessary, the conse- 
quences being just the reverse of the open cut. 

It therefore shows that the boundaries 
should be well defined by correct measures, 
thus avoiding too much or too little material, 
which will of itself create a defect even in a 
well balanced and properly constructed system. 

I have referred to Diagrams 2 and 3 a 
second time to show what a mistaken idea it 
is to cut trousers more open and close than is 
actually required, unless the departure takes 
place to meet some extraordinary demand of 
the figure. 

I will now endeavor to show in a plain and 
simple manner, what I consider to be the 
proper systematic construction of trousers. 
My experience has been very e.xtensive, and I 
am conceited enough to think that the system 
about to be described will produce a garment 
for the majority of figures, with little or no 
variation, unless for some extraordinary pur- 
pose. 

The best trousers for ordinary wear is a 
fairly straight cut with just as much seat angle 
as the construction will naturally produce. Of 
course any angle may be given, but this is al- 
ways accompanied with a defect, although the 
defect so produced may be less in comparison 
to the good done in shifting the angle, and 
which perhaps was done for a specific purpose, 
as in the case of a workingman's trousers, or 
where absolute ease was the first consideration- 

In laying down this system I would beg of 
the reader to use the small drafts for reference 
and to produce from them large ones for the 
full development of it, as small drawings do 
not convey to the mind what might be termed 
the "go" of the whole thing. I have been most 



painstaking in the construction of this system, 
which I have hitherto kept for my own private 
use. 

For the systematic construction see 
Di(i(jram 4. 

Rule A O X. 

() to X is the side leng'h; X to F, two 
inches more than half the leg, eighteen; and 
on to B, the full length of leg, thirty-one. 
Square B C, F D and M P. 

From B to 4, one-ninth of total seat, four 
inches; B to E, one-fourth of seat, nine inches; 
point 6 is half way between 4 and E; point 5 is 
half way between 6 and 4. 

Square down from 5 to W and up from 6 to 
N. E to C is same as 6 to E, with a seam 
added (or the correct and best way is from B 
to C half fork measure and half inch) . Square 
up from E to T for Hy line. Make from T to 
() one-fourth waist and seams, eight and one- 
half. 

Lower one-half or three quarters at T (un- 
less for very large waists when T would have 
to be raised as the waist increases). Nicely 
curve from T to C, particular care being taken 
not to hollow the curve too much, and a good 
dress to be taken out to allow the right side to 
go clear. 

From V to D, one-ninth of total scat and 
seam, I) F half knee measure. 

P to M. one inch less than half the bottom 
measure, and finish topsides as diagram. 

Tilt: UNDEKSIDES. 

Lav down the top sides as conveniently as 
possible (so as not to waste the material ) and 
continue the line from 6 to S.and from N to S 
make one-ninth total seat, four inches, and 
curve seat line from S to C, overshooting C 
about one inch, more or less (if desired very 
easy or close). Mark out two seams at Dand 
rule the underside leg as shown, giving quitt; 
two-thirds of spring outside P and one-tliird 
outside M. Make up total waist, allowing for 
a good sized cut to be taken out, the seat to 
measure one and one-half to two inches more 
than total measure to allow for ease and mak- 
ing up, and complete the draft as diagram. 

Now the system as here given is not only 
effective, but it is arranged in a simple manner 
so as to be easily understood by the most in- 
experienced student. Systems that are not 
easily arranged certainly are not easily under- 
stood. 

Garments of every description, in my opin- 
ion, should always be drafted from the square 
because any departure therefrom can now 
readily be detected. 

Sometimes we meet with systems contain- 
ing tremedous curves and also a very wide 



In Trouskrs Cutting. 



iQ 






O 

m 
m 
o 

o 

Q 

<: 

Oh 
O 

2 




o 



20 



Defects and Remedies 



Seat angle. Now it follows that if very curved 
lines are sewn to very straight ones the effect 
must be bad, for when this is done the iron 
must rectify the error and pressing and shrink- 
ing has to be carried to an enormous extent. 

If very much ease is wanted in trousers it 
is very absurd to angle the seat unnaturally; 
better infuse a little more size, a little more 
fork or take out a large cut behind. Increas- 
ing the seat angle only produces discomfort, 
pressure and creases; because, in angling the 
seat, the room in effect is not produced in 
straight lines, whereas the motions of the figure 
travel in straight lines, either in a horizontal 
or perpendicular direction. The secret of ease 
in the act of sitting down is to get the creases 
under the ball of the seat in straight lines 
(across) and identically the same as those 
found on the body in that locality. 

We also meet with systems where the at- 
tachment of the undersides to the topsides is 
so outrageous that shifting the balance marks 
and sundry little dodges have to be resorted to 
to make the trousers at all presentable. There 
is no earthly reason why this should be done 
if the draft is maintained in the square, so as 
to allow the material to enjoy the same privi- 
lege of being square. 

erect .\nd forward figures. 

Very little attention will set this matter 
right, as the departure in either of these fig- 
ures is not so great as might be supposed. If 
the figure stands very erect, shorten the under- 
sides a little. This can be done by taking out 
a small wedge in the centre of seat to nothing 
at side seam and this will remove the surplus 
material pressed back by the figure overshoot- 
ing the normal. 

A small wedge might also be inserted in 
the centre of fly line to nothing at the side 
seam to provide for the conve.xity of the figure 
in front (which would be about two-thirds, ap- 
parently, or not quite so much as the concave 
behind). 

Ah! Here is an admission, as the letting 
in of a wedge in front is very near in effect to 
the receding front. In fact, to recede the 
front and give more length to the top of fly 
line would be about one and the same thinar. 



But it does not follow th?.t because the front 
waist is prominent that the receding front may 
be always indulged in. The receding front or 
the fact of letting a wedge in the centre of fly 
line is only admissible, in my opinion, in special 
cases, and that is when the perpendicular or 
centre of gravity is overshot in compaiison 
with the normal figure. 

In a case like this (which applies either 
way, as the forward figure must receive the 
very opposite treatment to the erect) the lines 
of the figure are bent out of the straight, wliich 
allows the lines of the draft to be bent also. 

the advantages or disadvantages of the 
forward or receding front. 

In discussing this question we may particu- 
larly observe that many cutters are in favor of 
the former theory, while others assert the ad- 
vantages of the latter. We might further ob- 
serve that unless corresponding changes re- 
solve the two into one and the same thing, that 
it is practically impossible to make out that 
both these extremes are right, if the forward 
theory is correct, then the receding theory is 
not. On the other hand, if the receding theory 
is right the other must give way, and if by 
some change or other in the construction both 
ideas have resolved themselves into neither 
theory. The notion, therefore, of the forward 
or receding front is nothing but a notion, from 
the fact that both supposed methods produce 
a fit. 

Every figure we meet with can be contained 
in the square, i.e., so far as the boundaries are 
concerned in the process of construction, but 
the lines contained in the figure may become 
bent, as in the case before mentionetl; when, 
in my opinion, the effect of both a forward and 
receding front may be admitted, but then the 
introduction had better be done in the form of 
wedges after the draft is drawn. By this 
means for stooping or erect figures the changes 
required are kept more under control than to 
recede or forward the front, because by insert- 
ing or taking out a wedge, the effect is pro- 
duced all at once, while by the other process 
the top of fly has to be raised or lowered and 
it may be that the receding portion and the 
raising or lowering portion may not be exactly 



In Trousers Cutting. 



21 



equal as it would be in the case of a wedge. 
My opinion is that unless the figure be either 
stooping or erect, or when the waist exceeds 
the seat, we must confine ourselves to ordinary 
construction. But should the waist exceed the 
seat, i. e., the boundary lines of the draft 
(which we limit to the seat), the extra size 
must be introduced, but it does not follow that 
the introduction should take place in the front 
any more than at the side. If it were all put 
on the front the garment when on would get a 
share of the surplus forced back to the detri- 
ment of the same, which would be considered 
a defect. Certainly the shape of the fly line 
should follow the form at that point, but never 
give to the front more than its share of the ex- 
cess of waist over the seat. 

THE EKFECT OF A TOO FORWARD FRONT. 

(See Diagram lo.) 

In looking at this diagram it will be seen 
that line X X represents the front boundary 
of the figure and the dotted lines in front of 
the fly line is what we term a forward front. 

Now if extra material is placed in front of 
X as at O it will be seen that it exceeds the 
boundary line and in marking off the topside 
of waist we are obliged to reduce the same 
amount at "O." The effect of this would be, as 
the fork is held fast at C with a corresponding 
square at B, point O would be forced back 
again to X, i. e., the material would be com- 
pelled to go to X on account of the waist be- 
ing made the same size as the figure and a de- 
fect would be seen at point E, or midway the 
length of the line forced back. This defect 
would appear as if a wedge required taking 
out, but if the waist of the trousers was made 
up larger than the size of the figure the surplus 
material would remain in front of X, and the 
person wearing them would be able to look 
down inside the curve of the bottom of the fly. 

I have often seen the defect when one could 
take up a handfull of stuff in front without 
moving the trousers in any other part, but as I 
have said before, this could only be done when 
too large in the waist. On the other hand, if 
the waist is made up the right size the defect 
must appear at E. When the waist exceeds 
the seat the result is quite different as the form 



goes over the line at X without a correspond- 
ing change at C, which probably remains the 
same; the consequence is as the figure goes 
forward at X the material must go with it and 
to give relief to the fly line gradually to the 
fork we must raise the top of fly line at X 
above the square at "O" as every trousers cutter 
knows. If this were not done the pressure 
would be too great in the centre of fly line. 

THE EFFECT OF A TOO RECEDING FRONT. 

Just the reverse would happen in effect if 
the front receded, as in Diagram g, from X to 
O, there being no necessity to recede the front 
beyond the boundary line X. But if the front 
was receded, as from X to O, a pressure would 
be felt at A with a surplus of material at M, 
which would form a very bad defect in small 
waisted figures. 

It has often been urged that if the front is 
forwarded in large waisted figures it ought to 
be receded on the same principle, in very small 
waisted ones. There is not, however, much 
reason in such a statement because the exten- 
sion of the one, and the depression of the other 
are not identical, because the greater depres- 
sion does not happen in the same locality as 
the greatest extension. 

Now there are one or two ways in which 
we must consider the advantages or disad- 
vantages of the forward and receding front in 
relation to large and especially prominent 
waisted figures. I think the question is chiefly 
considered when this is the case. In both pro- 
cesses there is an advantage and a disadvan- 
tage. The question only remains whether the 
effect produced is to be for comfort or appear- 
ance. I wish to lay particular stress upon these 
two requirements, as neither process will pro- 
duce the same result. 

In the case of large waisted and prominent 
figures to forward the front would give the 
smartest appearance in standing, but in this 
process there would be a defect at P2, in the 
form of a little surplus material and which is 
all the more apparent because in large waisted 
figures the hips are flatter than in ardinary 
figures, but, of course, this would be regulated 
bo the amount forwarded. On the other hand 
if absolute comfort was the first consideration 



22 



Defects and Remedies 



I should certainly recommend the receding 
front (see diagram g.) because in receding the 
front from X to O it more than takes that 
amount from the boundary of the figure being 
in advance of the construction line of seat. 
Therefore in making up the topside waist the 
same amount (together with excess) would 
have to be carried to "O" that the front was 
receded and the effect when on, (that is when 
O was forced back to X as the figure would go 
beyond X, and especially if top of fly-line was 
raised at the same rate as in the forward front) 
would be that the material would be forced 
down the fly-line, the climax being reached in 
the center of the line, with a corresponding 
pressure at A. It is here that we find a greater 
advantage in the receding over the forward 
because in the forward front process on account 
of the hips being flat at E the surplus material 
thrown there appears to a disadvantage, while 
in the case of the receding process, the very 
fact of the hips being flat, relieves the pressure 
that would otherwise in ordinary figures be a 
defect in the locality of A. 

Therefore in summing up these two impor- 
tant considerations we must first discover 
whether in the process of construction we are 
to aim at <'Mect or comfort. 

I have endeavored to give both these points 
impartial consideration leaving the result to 
those who read these pages as Hieij then can 
decide, perhaps to their own satisfaction, which 
of the two processes they would prefer to adopt 

The necessary changes to be observed in 
providing for the pcculiurHii's und dcjurniilics of 
cusiomers. 

In discussing this question, to which I have 
before alluded, we can only arrive at one con- 
clusion, and that is, as the altitude and motion 
of one man is similar to that of another man, 
there cannot possibly exist any very serious 
departures from a properly constructed method 
of producing a well cut trousers. 

If we take the average of general construc- 
tion, we shall find that the peculiarities in fig- 
ures are not so very extraordinary, and de- 
formities are even more rarely encountered. 
If we take a very careful survey of the order 
book we shall find that the situation of peculi- 
arities, and even deformities, exist to a greater 



extent in the imagination of the client himself 
than could be traced in the pages of that book. 

VVe have certainly to deal with a variety of 
form and size, but even then there is a certain 
amount of symmetry and proportion associated 
with every figure. If it were not so the eye 
would become distracted and the outline of 
every form would convey to the mind the im- 
pression of deformity. 

The necessary changes therefore that are 
actually required in the construction of trous- 
ers for different forms are not so very exten- 
sive as we are sometimes led to believe. The 
greatest change is chiefly confined to the region 
of the seat anil fork. Either the seat to a 
given measure is prominent with correspond- 
ingly flat hips, or it is flat and poor with promi- 
nent hips. In the one case the fork measure 
would be greater, indicating where the change 
must take place, and in the other case the fork 
measure would be less indicating where the 
change must transpire. This can hardly be 
called a peculiarity as it is so very commonly 
met with in daily practice, and is simply a pro- 
cess to give and take. If the fork is dimin"shed 
the hip room must be extended and the total 
seat measure made up. 1 he difference of ex- 
cess of waist, etc., over or under the seat 
measure I have already dealt with under the 
heading of forward and receding front. 

In the event of deformities one cannot lay 
down any definite rule of treatment because 
we cannot tell what the character of the defect 
would be, but if the cutter were master of the 
principle of construction the defect, when pre- 
sented to him, would suggest the remedy. 

We might go on forever imagining possi- 
ble deformities, but it would be useless to do 
so, from the fact, that when a deformity did 
really present itself, the characteristics of the 
same would be altogether different to the one 
suggested. 

In dealing with the last question, viz: defects 
and remedies, I can only urge that defects are 
often more apparent than real. What I mean 
is, that we might go on forever enumerating a 
series of defects when really their origin might 
be traced to one cause and in just proportion 
to the cause would be the extent of the defect. 

Defects of any nature may safely be dated 



In Trousers Cutting. 



23 



from wrong construction, and m just propor- 
tion to the notation of the correct principles of 
construction we get a corresponding amount 
of error. 

I'RINCIl'AL OnjECTIONS. 

The principal objections we meet with in a 
finished trousers, are a sense of pressure and 
general discomfort with a visible amount of 
misplaced material, known as creases, and in 
these two words, idiscomfort and creates, is 
the sum total of defects in trousers. Yet, al- 
though the sense of error is contained in these 
two words there are no more than two or three 
causes which bring them into e.xistence. 

My opinion in writing upon this question is 
that it is a great mistake and a waste of time, 
to suppose that any real good can be supplied 
from a dissertation on defect-^ in trousers and 
their remedies. The great secret we have to 
trace is quite of an opposite character. We 
know that defects e.xist and a great many of 
them, and we also know that perfection incut- 
ting does not exist. Therefore our attention 
should not be directed to what we are already 
acquainted with, but it should be directed to 
the discovery of what we do not know, rather 
than to invite a return of those errors that have 
existed all along. 

In order to carry out the conditions of the 
essay I shall endenvor to trace the cause and 
to suggest a cure for the chief defects in trous- 
ers, for as I have mentioned before, the num- 
erous defects apparently nu.t with are the re- 
sult of jjractically the same cause, since the 
cause being of a greater or lesser magnitude 
produces in turn defects of more or less im- 
portance. 

There is also the fact that there are but two 

conditions in trouser cutting, the right way and 

the wrong way. The right way would suggest 

perfect construction and the other a general 

I defect. 

HOUSE SHOE IKEASKS. 

One of the greatest defects in trousers (as 
shown in diagram 6) is the presence of a num- 
ber of creases, known as horseshoe creases, 
taking diagonal directions, the situation being 
at the bac k of the leg from the seat down to 
below the knee. This defect arises from a too 
wide angled seat with too much openness in 
; the underside leg. The remedy would be to 
! cut a straighter seat line and a closer under- 



side leg, with perhaps a shade more fork. If 
the alteration is required to be made in the 
garment or on the pattern proceed as sug- 
gested in diagram 6; the dotted lines being the 
alteration. 

The second defect of importance is a sense 
of pressure and general discomfort when bend- 
ing the knee or in sitting and stooping; with a 
series of creases from the center of fork down 
past the knee at the same time the trousers 
being prevented from going clean up into the 
fork. This defect is represented in diagram 5. 
The cause of this very common defect is 
too little fork room or too small a diameter. 
The remedy would be as shown in diagram 7, 
the dotted lines suggesting the curve. 

The third defect is a pressure of the trous- 
ers on the calf (see diagram II) with a series 
of creases as shown across the leg. The cause 
of this defect is too short a topside, probably 
owing to the attitude of the figure. The rem- 
edy for this defect would be to open the pat- 
tern at B and let in a wedge to nothing at side. 
Some say that the wedge should be let in at A 
but this IS an error; because if let in at A the 
effect could not go beyond B as the fork is a 
fixed point and the material will square itself 
in a line with the fork. If on the other hand 
the wedge is let in at B just below the square 
of the fork the effect will be felt all down the 
leg and the defect will disappear. Others have 
suggested that ihe backs should be shortened 
to relieve the fronts but this method cannot 
effect a cure as more length is required in front 
which could not be introduced by simply short- 
ening the backs. 

These really are the three important de- 
fects caused by wrong construction, together 
of course with a too open or too close cut. 

All other defects mainly belong to the same 
causes, some being more a^jparent than others. 
The true remedy for defect must after all 
lie in construction, and to this end our atten- 
tion should be given, rather than to waste time 
in hunting up aefects that have existed for 
ages. 

In concluding this essay I may say that my 
aim has been to give a plain, straightforward 
reply to the questions laid down rather than to 
give an elaborate and high Hown treatise with 
out any real practical value, and I would urge 
a reformation in construction, worked up to, by 
experiment which could be managed and car- 
ried on, successfully I believe, by the united 
efforts of the whole of the Custom Cutters and 
Foremen Tailors' Societies. 



In Trousers Cutting. 




Djlt.'il LiuL-s 

will euro Creases 

lu Di:l. 5 




26 



Defects and Remedies 





28 



Defects and Remedies 



WPPF_VAO\Y.. 



W\\r\or Oe^ec\:s Q^od F^emedves. 



1. Creases across top of thigh. 

Too small in the fork, cut too close or 
drawn in when sewing leg seam. 

2. Surplus material in the lap. 

Too straight and short in seat angle. 
Crook the seat; let out side seam same 
amount, and if possible take out a larger 
cut behind. 

3. Side seams comingtoo far over on to the boot 

Close the under side legs. 

4. Too much loose cloth at back of trousers. 

Give more diameter across the seat and 
let out side seam same amount. 

5. Creases below the knee. 

Generally from insufficient room in the 
body. Give more for room or open the 
topsides a bit more. 

6. Loose stuff under the knee and creases over 
the knee. 

Straighten leg seam, take off same 
amount at side seam at knee and give a 
wider seat angle. 

7. Bagging at the knees and pressure from 
outside of knee when sitting down. 

Too little seat room and too small a 
fork. Give more room at both places. 
8- Horseshoe creases are formed by the un- 
derside being too long for the topside. 

Shorten undersides and stretch and 
shrink under the knees, or they may be 



caused by the underside being cut too 
open; reduce at side seam, adding wh:it 
is taken off at under leg seam. 

9. Trousers standing away from boot behind. 

Trousers cut too close or badly made 
up at the bottom and perhaps too hollow 
in the leg seams. 

10. Trousers tight in the fork. 

Too little diameter in seat; give more 
room at fork points. 

11. Trousers apparently too short when made 
up to measure, (a) Too little hip room. 
(b) Too hollow at back of seat, (c) To 
straight and short a seat. 

12. Why do defects appear in trousers at all? 

Firstly — Because when excessive, the 
construction is bad throughout. 
Secondly — Because by the motions and 
angles, peculiar to the body, creases 
arise from the fact of the trousers or 
covering being larger than the legs to 
be covered, and the fact of the material 
being larger and in excess of the figure 
the angles and lines in the material 
(caused by the motions of the body) are 
longer in proportion to the figure and 
not being the same size and attached to 
the figure, the extensions are greater to 
the extent of the difference in the size 
of material and the size of the figure. 



THE EXCELSIOR METHOD IN PRACTICE. 

The question has often been asked me why I do not use a thigh measure? I answer: Be- 
cause I claim the seat bears a closer relation to the crotch quantity than the thigh. When I 
find a gentleman with a flat inside thigh and a flat seat with large hip-joints, I cut the crotch 
one size smaller and add that quantity, or one size, on back parts at dotted line as represented 
in Diagram i. For example: If the seat measures 37, I cut it 36 fork and add the one-half 
inch at seat as above referred to in Diagram i. 



"W w ~w 



The Excelsior Trousers Cutter. 29 



The 

Custom Cutter - 

Fashion Review 

With monthly and semi-annual lithograph plates is the 
best technical journal in the United States. It con- 
tains the latest information on trade topics and articles, 
etc., by our best authors, together with the latest styles 
and reports by our European correspondents. 



)UDT DUH [ \W P 



SUBSCRIPTION PRICE: 

Journal With Plate $6. 00 

Journal Alone 3 00 



CO., Pulilisk'i's, 

Cliicaiio, 111. 



30 The Excelsior Trousers Cutter. 

The Excelsior Block Patterns. 



We have no hesitancy in saying they are the best block 
patterns now on the market. They have been corrected 
during years of experience at the cutting board. 

^Ve could give many letters testifying to their value 
and correctness, but prefer our patrons to test them 
for themselves. 

SAMPLE PATTERNS SENT FREE OF CHARGE. 



PRICE LIST: 

D. B. Frocks (Prince Albert) from ^^ to 43, 1 1 sizes, $io.oo; half set, 6 sizes, $5.50 

Cutaway I'rocks, 3 or 4 button; from t,t, to 43, 1 1 sizes, 10.00; half set, 6 sizes, 5.50 

Sacks, S. IJ from 32 to 42, 1 1 sizes, 10.00; half set, 6 sizes, 5-50 

Fly Front Overcoats, S. B from 35 to 45, 1 1 sizes, 1 2.00; half set, 6 sizes, 6.50 

Vests, S. B from ^^ to 43, 1 1 sizes, 5.50; half set, 6 sizes, 3.00 

Trousers, from Waist from 28 to 43, 15 sizes, g.oo; half set, 8 sizes, 5.00 

$56.50 $31.00 

One Full Dress Coat Pattern, size 36 or 38, i .00 i .00 

One D. B. Sack Coat Pattern, size 35 or 37, 1.00 i.oo 

One D. B. Sack Overcoat Pattern, size 37 or 39 1.50 1.50 

One Full Dress Vest Pattern, size 35 or 37 75 .75 

$60.75 $35-25 

Special cut patterns, all body coats, $1.00; overcoats, $1.50. 

Trousers and Vest, 75 cents each, cut from heavy manilla paper, and delivered to express 
company office in Chicago. The full amount must in all cases accompany the order, or they 
can be sent C. O. D. if half the amount accompanies the order. 

Special patterns sent by mail. 

Address all letters and make ajll orders payable to 

THE ROBERT PHILLIPS CO., 

Weareprepnrwltociit allstylpsof ratterns CT-JTCl^rT^ TT T TATOTQ 

for ladies' or BWitlomenV wt.ar. *^XliL/^vaU, 1 J_i J_iliMU10. 



The Excelsior Trousers Cutter. 31 



THE CUSTOM GUTTER CUTTING SCHOOL 



Is not Excelled by any 
School in America. 



Receive personal instruction from the 
Author of the Excelsior Systems, daily. 
The rates are as follows: 

The Custom Cutter Cutting School. 

Instruction given daily (except Sundays) from 9 a. m. to 5 p. m. 
Evening classes when necessary. 



TERMS FOR INSTRUCTION PAYABLE IN ADVANCE: 



To rrnctiral Taitors, : : : $IO0.O0 

To Cutters Dcsiriiif/ to Change Syntenis, : 50.0tt 

To Cutters Desirinff to C/idiif/e Sijstrms, for Coats. : '-io.Ott 

To Cutters Desiring to C/iaiif/e Si/stenis, for t'ests, : : JO.Ott 

To Cutters Itesiriiif/ to Change Si/stenis, for Pants, J5.O0 

Luilies- Garments, : : : 5O.0O 

Special Itates on applieation to those desiring prirnte instruction of 
frinn one hour to one week. 

THE ROBERT PHILLIPS CO., PROPRIETORS, 



